Letter From Bahrain

It’s a little more than disconcerting to be on a family vacation in Europe, when you learn your government has made it officially impossible to return to the Middle East, and yet it’s not feasible to continue onto the United States.  I’m talking about the mandatory evacuation of American military dependents from Bahrain.

Where is home?  Culturally, it’s the United States.  In terms of possessions, family heirlooms and equally valuable sentimental items, it’s Bahrain.

Who expects to be evacuated during vacation?  This seems like going out for dinner and learning you’ve been evicted from your house.

In my case, I returned to Bahrain after parting company with my family at Heathrow Airport a week ago. My government could not stop me from entering Bahrain on a commercial airline and a valid passport. 

How much longer can I remain here?  It’s anyone’s guess.  A few more days, a week.

The British expatriate community – all civilians, which slightly outnumbers Americans here, has no plans to leave Bahrain at all.

George Bush’s effort to introduce a Middle School textbook version of American democracy to Iraqi citizens has turned Baghdad into Hell on Earth.  Saudi religious fanatics and terrorists recently answered the government’s call for surrender on Wednesday with another shoot-out in Riyadh.

Because of this, and much more, the Middle East is not exactly a top tourist destination these days.

There’s no discounting that al-Qaeda sympathizers exist in Bahrain, but most Americans here are more fearful of the Indy 500-driving style of the locals, then beady-eyed terrorists on a mission from Allah.

Despite my pose as a cynic, a prime reason for returning here was to retrieve our two Yorkshire Terriers from a boarding kennel, quickly collect specific valuables, sentimental items and make CDs of important computers files. 

The great unknown factor for both Americans and Bahrainis is still the status of the Bahrain School – the land and buildings owned by the Bahrain International School Association (BISA), the facility managed by the U.S. Department of Defense and owner of the entire school inventory.

It follows that if the school is solely for American dependents and there are no dependents, then there is no school.  But, of course, it’s not that cut and dry.  Nearly 70% of the high school population is tuition-paying non-American dependents –  at the rate of $17,000 annually, primarily Bahrainis.

As of now, the American teaching staff does not have emergency essential status.  They may return to Bahrain only at their own expense, and the U.S. government will not assume any responsibility.

The Defense Department wants to close the school.  The Bahrain International School Association (BISA) wants the U.S. to operate the school at least one more year until a reasonable transition to a private, international school may be achieved.  At the same time, BISA is also prepared to immediately staff the school and acquire the inventory in time for the normal beginning of the 2004-05 school year.  That's a tall order on such short notice.

This is July 24 and for tuition-paying families, options are virtually hopeless.  With an influx of Westerners fleeing eastern Saudi Arabia - the massacre at al-Kohbar in late May was just 30 miles from Bahrain – enrollment at private schools with an English-based curriculum is maxed out.  For the upper-class Bahrainis, these schools are what count for a ticket to reputable universities in the Middle East, the United Kingdom and the United States. 

Over the past several days, a decision about the school has been forthcoming from the U.S. government – inshallah.  It’s a very political issue, with the Bahrain Crown Prince recently in Washington, D.C. to discuss this with U.S. Secretary of Defense Donald Rumsfeld.

It’s an unnecessary fiasco.

When we embarked on this phase of our life, we wanted a little excitement and the chance to experience an international lifestyle.  As the clichés goes: careful what you wish for. 

Have passport, will travel.